*disclaimer #1: the original pics were 1200x1600 pixels, which is pretty big. I've re-sized them but as a result, the pictures have suffered some quality degradation.
*disclaimer #2: if I use the flash on our digital camera, the pics are too bright. If I don't use the flash, the colors are a lot better (in my opinion) but the slightest movement makes the pictures blur. As you can tell, my hand isn't as steady as it needs to be. Some of them are VERY blurry. Sorry for that.
Ready for the tour? I haven't included everything... just what I currently use. Also, this is my electric rig so the Taylor will not be discussed. Finally, I've gone on enough about my amp (and Tim's) so amps will also remain undiscussed.
Shall we proceed?


Guitars (Left to Right)
1999 (?) Ibanez S470 - All pickups are stock, which means Axis humbuckers and an Axis single coil. The bridge is a Floyd Rose type, but I don't remember if it's an official one or just licensed. That means that I can divebomb to my heart's content and it won't go out of tune, but string changes are kind of annoying. I'm now to the point where I can work a Floyd Rose and tune it up after string changes, but it's still kind of annoying. Basswood body, maple neck, rosewood fretboard. Jumbo frets (I think) and medium action. Made in Korea. I purchased this one at Guitar Center on sale. It only ended up costing me less than $250 out of pocket because I had recently sold my Jackson Performer.
Overall, this is a pretty fun guitar to play. The neck and body are very thin so it's very light but not as ugly as a Parker Fly (I don't care how light they are... those things make me sick). The sound quality isn't too bad either, especially running through a tube amp. It also responds pretty well to my pedals and it's nice to have a some passive pickups as an alternative to the ones in my Peavey. According to Young, they have yielded better note clarity. For a long time, it's also been one of my few guitars with no problems, so it's had its fair share of use. It covers medium to low gain really well and is OK for high gain. There's a small dent in the headstock because I forgot about the ceiling fan in Morgan and Darby's old room.
1995 (?) Peavey Predator - This is the first guitar I ever owned... still my favorite for most applications. Poplar body, maple neck, maple fretboard. Medium frets (I think) and very low action. It's very easy to play and it's only real weakness is note bending. Made in the USA.
After the stock pickups died (literally), I replaced them with an EMG81 in the bridge and an EMG85 in the neck. The most common complaint with active pickups is that they sound like the pickup, not like the guitar. If I had an expensive guitar, I would never think of replacing the pickups with active ones. Since this guitar originally cost $199.99, however, I'm not missing much. Although I must say, the tech who installed the EMGs was impressed that though it was a cheap guitar, the quality was far better than the Squier equivalent. Ha! Take that, post-CBS Fender!
This guitar easily covers low to high gain and everything in between.
I'm on the third pickguard and there are dents and scratches left and right. Since it was my first guitar and my first band was a punk band, I basically threw it around. It's fallen off onto the ground, bumped into walls, cymbals, amps, etc. It's probably seen at least 20 stickers over its lifetime, though only 6 remain (Whence He Came, Midsummer, Extol, Focused, Unashamed, Boot to Head Records). The frets are starting to wear. The neck is worn down near the body (strap side) because I used to strum there.
I never plan on selling it.
1967 Fender Mustang - I purchased this one in 2000 or 2001. It's post-CBS, but American-made. It's mostly original hardware minus 1 tuning peg, 1 pickup (I believe it's a Seymour Duncan), ground wiring, and knobs. I verified the serial number and headstock and it's a legit '67. Fender Mustangs were smaller-scale guitars that began production in '64 (similar to the Fender Duo-Sonic). They were somewhat limited, and not really that popular until Kurt Cobain re-introduced them (also Jaguars and the dreaded Jag-Stang) to mainstream America. Maple neck, rosewood fretboard.
The paint has been stripped off as well ('67s were only made in red, white, or daphne blue). This one was originally blue, so I think I might leave it as is. As the story goes, the previous owner found this guitar in a dumpster. After getting it back in working order, it was used by the old guitar player in the High School music team. Some time later, it was returned to the owner, who eventually advertised it in the Student Lounge of the Seminary Library. I was working custodial on a Saturday night and saw the ad. Hmm. 1967 Fender for... $100? The next week I went to the seller's apartment to buy it and, as it turned out, I already knew him. A few weeks later, he said that if I ever got tired of it and wanted to sell it, tell him and he'd buy it back. I don't know if he had seller's remorse, or found out what it was really worth (not that much, in my opinion, but definitely more than $100), but I'm happy with it and don't plan to sell it any time soon.
Before Resolved:, I had some clean-up work done... complete setup (cleaning and polishing, new strings, re-setting action, checking neck, etc.) and repaired the Mickey Mouse ground wiring job performed by a previous owner. Here's a tip... when you're working with guitar wiring, try to keep the wires inside the guitar (that problem is now fixed thanks to Tina at The Amp Shop). This guitar is now my other favorite. It's not as good for high gain, but it covers medium to low gain very well.
Here's my pedal board. Everything is velcroed to a piece of plywood. I don't remember what size, but it's durable yet slightly flexible. And not too heavy! It's been sanded down and spray painted black because nothing is as offensive as a pedal board made of unfinished plywood. The original plan was to put rubber feet on the bottom and handles on top, but that hasn't been done yet. I've determined that it's not a necessary expense.
This pedal board fits snugly into a 76-key keyboard case. The board was purposely cut to those dimensions. Once I add the packing foam, it doesn't move around much at all and is well-protected.

left half (close-up)

right half (close-up)
Boss LS-2 Line Selector - I'm not sure exactly why I bought this, other than the features sounded cool. It basically manages effect loops, but it can also run multiple guitars through one amp, run one amp through multiple amps (I did this at Resolved:), and power other pedals. Right now, I'm using it only as a power supply... it's not even connected in the signal chain.
Boss DS-1 Distortion - The classic orange box. Probably the most maligned pedal that Boss makes. Also one of the most misunderstood (tied with the Ibanez Tube Screamer). The bad thing about sites like Guitar Geek and guitar magazines is that when they review a player's effect pedals, they don't usually discuss how the artist uses them. Instead, everyone says, "Aha! The Boss DS-1 is used by everyone from Kurt Cobain to the Edge to Joe Satriani. If I get one, I'll sound like them!" As you can imagine, they're often disappointed when their dreams don't materialize.
The most important thing to determine is how effects are used.
Many times, players use the DS-1 to boost already distorted amps to push them over the top (more gain, more sustain). The same can be said of Tube Screamers. Ever wonder why a Tube Screamer sounds so bad when used as a normal distortion? Because it's not designed to be used that way. It's all in the name - a pedal designed to push amp tubes harder and make them distort (and compress signal) more.
So, where does the DS-1 fall? It's still pretty brittle when used as a distortion pedal, though running it through a tube amp helps a lot. You can always get them modded by Robert Keeley or Analog Mike (or others). But it really starts to come alive when it is used with an already overdriven amp. As you can guess, this is how I use it, and I'm satisfied. I got this one free from someone who thought it sounded like garbage. He got it from someone who thought it sounded like garbage. And so on. If nothing else, I was determined to find a good use for it... and I'm pretty happy with it.
I used it most noticeably for the leads on "In Christ Alone" at Resolved:.
Fulltone FullDrive 2 - This is a boutique overdrive pedal hand-built by Mike Fuller. I was especially happy to get one with cream-colored knobs, since I think the black ones are ugly. Left switch is overdrive ON/OFF and the right knob is boost ON/OFF. Boost only works with overdrive ON. The switches are close enough that you can hit both at once if you so desire. This is one of the newer models, with the 3-way selector switch that alternates between CompCut, Flat Mids, and Vintage modes. The first two are great for boosting an amp, with the boost greatly increasing the volume. Vintage mode yields a nice overdrive with the boost function not as noticeable. The pedal is true bypass, which means a lot less signal degradation when the pedal is off. It wasn't cheap, but I got it at cost when Andrea was working at Guitar Center (oh the horror). I'm surprised they even carried it. Tim's amp plus this pedal equals "pick your jaw up off the floor" tone.
Electro-Harmonix Deluxe Memory Man - Analog Delay/Chorus/Vibrato. In the olden days, the Edge used a couple of these. It's one of the more popular analog delays. It's only 550ms of delay, but the notes swim if the settings are right. You can get some really dreamy notes out of this box. On the downside, the casing is huge and eats up a ton of pedalboard real estate. On an even sadder downside, there's a very noticeable volume drop when you engage the pedal. The "Level" knob should fix this, but unfortunately, increasing the "Level" raises both your volume whether or not the pedal is on. There's no real way to reduce the ON/OFF volume discrepancy. It's still a great pedal, though perhaps better for recording, unless you find a way to cheat the system. It self-oscillates, which makes it nice for noise jams.
Red Witch Moon Phaser - boutique phaser/tremolo pedal hand-build by the Kiwis at Red Witch Analogue Effects (New Zealand). I bought this one off a guy named Steve for a reasonably fair price. It features 6 different settings - tremolo, tremolo/phase combo, and 4 different phasers. The phasers vary in terms of modulation and "swirly-ness." You can adjust the speed and depth of the effect as well. Unlike some phasers, the slowest speed is really slow. It's true bypass which preserves your tone. It's also possibly the prettiest box on my board, as it's chrome-plated. Unlike many tremolo pedals (especially Boss), there's no volume drop when the effect is on. Instead, the volume increases slightly when the effect is on, bringing the line signal up to unity. When I requested an instruction manual, Ben (Mr. Red Witch himself) e-mailed me a copy. +1 for good customer service.
Loooper Custom 3 Loop - true bypass effects loop hand-made by Davey Boggs at Loooper. It's a fairly simple design... you can dump your non-true bypass or noisy pedals in the individual loops and then isolate them from your main signal chain, protecting it from unwanted coloration that badly buffered pedals usually provide.
Loop 1 contains the Boss DS-1
Loop 2 contains the Electro-Harmonix DMM
Loop 3 contains the Boss GT-3
I use the Loooper (among other things) to cheat the DMM's line level problem. Since it's isolated in the effects loop, it's ON all the time. I introduce and remove it from the signal chain via the Loooper. This way, I can adjust the "Level" knob to bring it to a unity gain while the OFF line level remains the same.
As far as the footswitches go, #1 turns Loop 1 ON and OFF. The red LED indicates ON. Switch #2 toggles between Loop 2 and Loop 3. Yellow for 2 and Green for 3. Switch #3 turns Loops 2 and 3 ON and OFF. The blue LED indicates ON.
I got to pick the pedal setup, paint, and LED colors. I also added a 9-volt battery clip in case I go that route, and chose certain modifications from Dave's list of options.
Dave was incredibly helpful in helping me decide what configuration to use, as well as explaining the pedal so I knew what I was getting into. The pedal was not completed on time, but he explained the situation (sickness, then car accident) and didn't take offense at my inquiry. I highly recommend any business dealings with him. (EDIT: Loooper pedals are currently not in production because Mr. Boggs has carpal tunnel syndrome. Bummer.)
Boss GT-3 - In some ways, this unit is the crazy uncle of the family. He doesn't really belong, but you can't throw him out since he's family and all. It's the lone multi-effects unit that is still in use. It's really finicky about what amplifier it's running through. It really dislikes solid state guitar amps (like Morgan's old one) but smoothes out with tube amps. It's really useful for getting sounds that analog pedals can't accomplish but not as good at sounds that imitate analog effects.
The main reason I keep it is to have tap-tempo effects and reverb. I also use it quite extensively for ambient soundscapes like the ones I overused used at Resolved:.
There's an entire world inside once you get into the programming aspect of this unit. Almost any parameter can be modified in real-time with the CTL and Expression pedals. You can even set effects up to occur after you've initiated the sequence... *push pedal* ... *wait for programmed amount of time* ... *effect engages*. For example, you can set up certain effects to be controlled by the expression pedal with different positions and times. With one simple sweep of the pedal, you can begin playing and as time progresses, the individual effects will turn on and off automatically.

Isn't it pretty?